The wandering Jew's Christmas in Korea

Christmas in Korea is a strange thing (like most things here). While a majority of the people here are Christian and celebrate Christmas it is no where near the level in America. I read somewhere that it is more of a date holiday like valentines day in the US and less family oriented, unlike there new years which is the reverse. Well for Christmas eve I went out to the local bar with all of my coworkers and celebrated with everyone to the oh so played out Christmas tunes of Mariah Carey (I swear it is the only Christmas music they have in this country). Anyway for Christmas day I got together with a couple of friends at my friends Sophie's apt for a pot luck style Chritmukkah party. We had quite the selection of food: Latkes, dumplings, sushi, chips and salsa, potatoes and turmeric, cakes, donuts, and beer, lots of beer.





They love there cakes here and always put candles on them. I don't think they got the memo that its just reserved for birthdays.

Getting a haircut

So the time finally came where I felt I needed a haircut. I have been here for 5 weeks now (crazy to think about) so it was time. As my Korean is not very good or anywhere near a level of explaining to someone how I would like my haircut I thought about asking one of my coworkers who speaks Korean to come with me whenever I would first need one. Well it was Thursday afternoon and I didn't have much goign on with plenty of time to kill before having to go into work. I ran some errands and with plenty of time to spare I though what they hell Ill just go myself. I walked to the hair salon I pass on my bus ride to work and it appeared to be closed but as I got closer I realized it was open with very few people inside.

The place was called Mix & Match salon. I walked in and the hairdresser was cutting a gentleman's hair at the time. She turned around and looked at me so I said Kotu haryogo hanundeyo (I would like a haircut). She was still just kind of looking at me so I said it again but it wasn't really getting me anywhere. She then proceeded to mine hair cutting with her fingers to her hair and said Kotu? Ne I responded (yes) olmayeyo? (how much is it?) She pointed to the chair in front of me gesturing for me to take a seat and that she would be with me shortly. From what I have experienced here thus far plus what I heard about getting your haircut I didnt think it would be too expensive. While waiting I found a book of prices, used my somewhat ability to read and found cut on the menu (same price for males and females) 15,000 won ($12.60).

After waiting for a couple minutes she was ready and took my coat to hang. I sat down and she basically just started cutting the sides looking at me with approval of the length. Short Jjalbun and i put my fingers close together to show her. I think it was lost in translation as I meant for the hair on my head to be short and I think she thought I meant to only cut a little. So I had to keep telling her shorter shorter until she got out the buzzers and started using them with the comb instead of the scissors. During the experience we had a couple of laughs over trying to communicate with each other but it got done in the end. After they cut your hair, they wash it for you (no additional charge and massage your head a little which was nice). You then go back to the chair where they dry your hair and style it and add product if you wish. All this while they meticulously make sure no hairs fall on you so you don't have to go home, shower and change for the price of 15,000 won and remember you dont tip in this country.

Overall the haircut experience was a good one but when I got home I noticed that the length of hair on my right side burn and above my ear is shorter then the other side or anywhere else for that matter. I almost look like Billy Bob Thornton in sling blade on one side of my head, except not as bad. Maybe ill go with someone who speaks Korean next time...

My Classes

So Wednesday came and went again and I got another present from my students (2 actually). This time it was Christmas candy. Two girls had gone to Costco and bought a bunch of candy to give to their friends for Christmas during school and I was included. My Wednesday class is fantastic, not only do they give me presents but they are extremely smart and are a joy to have. There are some real characters in there too which makes class amusing. Here are my 3 favorite classes so you can put some faces to names.



My tues/thurs memory class. Tony, Alan, John, Peter, Nelson (my fav), Kevin, Allie, Kelly, and Annie




My wed reading class. Ian, Brian, Brian, Emily, Jina, Julie, Jen, Emily, Henry and Eric was absent (the one that gave me the coffee bun and probably my smartest student)




My tues reading class. Bryan, Andy, Ted, Andrew, Kevin, Ben, Angela, Jade, Irene, and Sarah and Grace is absent (the youngest girl in the class but the best at English)

Under the Sea

This weekend we ventured out to see Korea's largest seafood market. After having seen it on Andrew Zimmern's bizarre foods and Anthony Bourdain's no reservations I felt as if i was required to see it. The 66,000 sq meter market was diverse to say the least but oddly repetitive. It was made up of rows upon rows of stands selling anything that lives in the sea, you name it and you can find it alive or dead but more likely alive with options on how you would take it home: alive, freshly killed whole, or cut to your specifications.







The market was divided into sections: live fish, bottom dwelling creatures (snails, slugs, oysters, muscles, and a bunch of stuff that I didn't exactly know what it was), octopus, crabs, dried fish, shark, frozen fish, fish being prepared for extremely fresh sashimi, eels etc etc. When we were there there was also a whole other section that was not open which I think was the commercial section where they have auctions in the mornings.












yes that is the head of a shark








monk fish showing off their livers

With intentions of going there and trying live octopus (like Andrew Zimmern did) we failed as it did not seem like anyone was going to give us one to try. I think it helps when you have people who are locals and a giant camera crew following you around. While we did not eat live octopus (we decided we would find a restaurant to try it in) we did have raw squid which was interesting (the little white guys below). Never the less, as always in Korea, it was a colorful, fun, and freezing adventure.


tasted like the ocean

Its Official, Im an Alien

So I final received my ARC today or my Alien Registration Card. As you may remember me stating, without this you cant get a phone, and cant get internet in your apt. Why they have these rules i'm not entirely sure but I do know that its a pain in the ass.



With this card I will be running around the city tomorrow before work, getting a cell phone, getting a check card from the bank that I can actually use at stores unlike the debit card they gave me which is not useful anywhere, and hopefully if all goes well calling the internet company from my cell to set up internet in my apt. I wont have to steal some unreliable wireless signal that seems to never work when I actually need it to. I will actually be completely settled in!

The strange world of Korean theater

This past weekend I had the wonderful experience of viewing Korean theater. I met up with friends I made during training and we all went to Daehangno which is the theater district of Seoul. While walking around and exploring our new surrounding we found a small ticketing booth in front of a theater and informed there is a "funny show" (comedic play) at 7 o'clock. From the poster and what was told to us about the play we figured it looked like some sort of romantic comedy that was dealing with some sort of crime driving the plot taking place in Paris.



Oh how presently wrong we were. It was comedic but funny in the way that Asian television programs are funny. Very eccentric, animated and oh so strange. While they couldn't get to strange as I think the original play is French they definitely added some Korean flavor to the show.

Starting with the theater itself, it was a tiny black box theater that was really just the stage (it was the set of a living room in an apt) and they decided to cram 3 "rows" of seating right in front of it with another 3 "rows" on top like a bunk bed. I say "rows as they were probably 6 inches deep and if I sat up straight my head was almost hitting the level above me.







The play was in Korean so I had the fun opportunity to make up my own dialogue of what was going on but I feel as if I was still able to follow the plot of the play from all of the action and expressions. It was not a romantic comedy it was more of a plot twisting thriller. Actually reminded me of some Hitchcock films. A woman is married to an abusive controlling husband so she decides to get back at him with their maid. They derive a plan to kill the husband and make a bunch of money doing so (I think by selling the Picasso painting they had in the apt). The maid new a person that looked like the husband only was he was a dork. They train him to act and dress like her husband so they can falsify some documents for a very flamboyantly gay transvestite friend of the husbands. There are hiccups along the way, the husband catches on but is killed. Not stopping there the maid turns on everyone to take all of the money "killing the tranny in the process" but we later find out that it was all a big scam on the wife by the maid, impostor, and tranny (he wasn't really dead). The plot twists again and it is revealed that the wife is actually an undercover police officer working the case to bust these three individuals.

If that wasn't strange enough the play would turn pitch black in between acts and some sort of techno music would come on (I guess to portray the mood of was was to happen). The selection was fantastic, I heard a song from the Blade soundtrack, some techno club beats, and they ended with Du Hast playing. They techno beat would also come on anytime there was a fight or gun struggle as well as the lights go out and the strobe lights come on.

It was something that I really enjoyed and I know I will never forget. Sorry if I ruined the plot for whoever will be traveling to Seoul anytime soon and wanted to see this show but the experience is much better.

Oh and I forgot to mention, rock paper scissors is huge here everyone plays it to decide something but it is called rock scissor paper and they they don't say shoot just rick scissor paper. They also play in large numbered groups which I still haven't really figured out how it works although it has been explained to me. Anyway they started of the show with a game of rock scissor paper comprised of all of the audience competing against each other for the prize they were giving away. (What looked like some book and CD/DVD of sorts I think).

Presents

Wednesday, oh how I have always adored hump day but it is even sweeter when you only have to work half of a day. My schedule is Monday through Friday but on Wednesdays and Fridays I have a half day so i get out at 7 instead of 10. Today was all the sweeter, literally.

Before starting class the students started to arrive when I struck up a conversation with Eric (one of the students). We were chatting about his schooling and how is week was when he saw his mom in the hallway with a bag to give him. When he came back into the class he went to his seat and took out the contents of his bag and walked over to my desk. "Here you go, my mom wanted me to give you this." What is it? "Its a coffee bun." Oh but of course, I looked at the golden brown pastry with wide eyes and thanked Eric very much as well as told him to tell his mother thank you. There was still plenty of time left before class started so i took a bite of the coffee bun and it was quite delicious. Flaky, buttery, moist, crispy all at once. It had a mild after taste of coffee to it and also had a treasure of some kind of jam like substance in the very center. For someone who is not a fan of coffee it was pretty delicious.

Is this the Korean equivalent of giving your teacher an apple? I am not sure if this gesture was because he liked me and told his mother how wonderful I was from the last class or more likely a kind of present from the parent to make sure her kid does well in class. Honestly my first thought was the latter but either way it made me feel good inside to receive a gift from a student.

A cold Sunday (no not the icecream)

Sunday I was finally able to explore more of the city that I will be living in for a year. Since arriving I have felt that I haven't had enough time to do a couple of things, one of them being explore my new city (others being read my books and practice/learn Korean). Well I was all moved in and I didn't have to work so I decided to go and do something touristy. The day was beautiful, not a cloud in the sky and no smog so I thought I would do something outdoors. Well surprise surprise it was freezing and I suffered the consequences but it was worth it. I took a subway ride to the other end of the city to visit Gyeongbokgung which is the palace are of Seoul. When Seoul had emperors, kings & queens, and dynasties this was the place to be. A large and magnificent palace encapsulated by a wall and full of different buildings (Banquet building, bedrooms, work area, concubine building etc) and courtyards.









When I arrived I was just in time for the free guided English tour, it was me and 4 other people. Our guide explained all of the buildings: their use, meaning, design etc as well as the history of the palace. It was originally built in 1395 by the Joseon Dynasty but unfortunately like most historical sites and landmarks it has been destroyed by invaders (the Japanese) and wars fought throughout time. It was rebuilt in the 1800's as well as the 1900's and construction/renovation is still going on today. Some of the aspects of the palace are original and the others are from different points in its reconstruction history.





It was a nice change of pace from the surrounding modern world of Seoul: no cars, subway, restaurants and neon signs. While none of these things were in site it was a bit strange to look into the distance and see mountains and nature as a backdrop for the palace from one angle and the high rises from another. What a strange place...

Move In Day

Today was the day I moved into my new apt. I packed up my suitcases from the hotel I was staying at (as well as the pillow, towels, and outlet converter I took from the hotel) and got in a cab. It went over much better this time as I had wrote down my address on a piece of paper to show the driver (written in Hangul and English). While waiting for the realtor to arrive It started to snow, light flurries at first twirling in the wind and then it was quite heavy for a little while. When going over all of what I need to know about the apt with the realtor he informed me that in Korea if it rains or snows when you move into a new home it means good luck and that you will be rich. If only all of these sayings weren't based in complete nonsense.

My building is nice and clean and there is a convenience store downstairs as well as a restaurant (more like kitchen with some nicer seating. I think it is mostly for the residents and it looks good and cheap) and there is actually what appears to be an English academy as well. the building is 12 floors and I am on the top with a nice view of some buildings (there is one that just has a light show on it whenever it is dark: fireworks, designs, symbols, all kinds of stuff) the moon and I will find out if the sun is there in the morning.











After putting my bags down and having the realtor show me where the local grocery store is I ventured off to a land called E-Mart. You guessed it, Korea's version of Wal-Mart. I needed some basics, although it was a nice surprise to find out that the apt had some pots for cooking, cooking utensils, bowls, cups and a roll of toilet paper. I needed hangers, a trash can, soap, some breakfast food, paper towel, Iron, a clothes drying rack (as dryers are not common place) and more toilet paper.

I had a good laugh when i saw one of the mugs. What a coincidence.





They sell 30 packs for about $9

The E-Mart was basically a super wal-mart although they did not have grossly over sized anything really and all the merchandise was Korean. Oh, and I didnt see any obese rednecks.





After putting everything away when I got home I stumbled upon someone's unsecured wireless signal in the building and am currently mooching off of the that (not sure how long i will do that for but it could potentially be one less bill to pay). Plus I cant get internet until i receive my alien registration card which I should be getting this upcoming week (yeah! i can get a phone too). My stomach started to rumble so I went walking around the neighborhood and found a delicious chicken bbq (dak galbi) place (cheap, filling, and spicy to warm me up from the 25 degree weather outside).

Commonplace in Seoul

Here is a list of things to look out for when walking on the sidewalks.
- Motorbikes, yup motorcycles, scooters and all the like drive on the sidewalks as well as the streets.
- Cars, ya thats right cars are all over the sidewalks even though there seem to be cement pillars to block them. If you want to enter a building just drive up onto the sidewalk, get as close as you can to the entrance, park and go inside. (side note, when cars make u turns, they do it anywhere they want and multiple cars do it at once (no median) like a synchronized car commercial, except not so synchronized.



- Food vendors, oh the food vendors! You can find anything from fruits and vegetables to your Korean style deep fried drunk food all of the sidewalk and streets.
- Middle aged women handing out "business cards" for what seems to be prostitutes with free samples of gum or mints or both inside. (its a good way to always have gum).
- Religious fanatics yelling in Korean how much they love god and that jesus is the way.
- The sale of all kinds of things. A big pile of shoes on the sidewalk or a table set up with jewelry wallets etc.
- And if its nighttime and you are out in an area with a lot of bars/clubs, yup, youll find vomit.

If you venture into the subway system here is what to expect.

- You can still find the street vendors descending into the underground but then it changes. In this underground maze you feel like you are in a mall with clothing shops, food, arcades, and mini marts.
- Oh right there is also a subway. When entering the subway you will see a wall to not expose the tracks and sliding glass doors where the doors of the subway will be. Take a look down and you will find where your are supposed to stand and form a queue. I dont think my foot size fits in here.



- Walk into the crowded subway and take a look around. Yup thats right your the only non Asian face around. Pay closer attention and you will realize you are being stared at by lots of people. The subway is crowded and full of young and old abled and disabled

- Stay on for a couple of stops and the doors connecting the subway cars will open and one of two people will come out. A blind person panhandling for money while playing some traditional Korean music from a portable speaker device. Or, you will see a man with a microphone and sound system pulling a cart full of spandex leggings. He starts his sales pitch and surprisingly they start selling like hotcakes, maybe because they are only 4000 won about $3.50 or since just about ever girl here wears them.

The difference a day can make

My second day of teaching is over and it was much better. The classes went well, I was on time with the schedule and I had a good report with the kids. After going in early I basically learned that the most important thing we were taught in training (what I was trying to focus on the first day) is not the most important thing for effectively teaching the kids.

I started my day off meeting up with a realtor and going around the area where i work to find an apt. We started looking at a couple of places and wow where they small! I knew not to expect much but they were just a little bit bigger than the room i had in NYC. They are all studio style with a small kitchenette when you first walk in which usually had the washer under the 1 or 2 stove top burners. Dryers really dont exist here so doing laundry will be fun. The rent was relatively cheap at these places but they were small and only partially furnished (no bed and usually no desk). The bathroom was European style with the shower head connected to the sink with no divide between you the toilet and the sink. After looking around that area we went to another which would have slightly bigger apts but they would be more money. These were much better, bigger windows (which make it feel bigger), bigger rooms and a normal style bathroom. After debating in my head for a while i decided to splurge and get the bigger apt even though it is more money. I love the location (right in the heart of a bunch of restaurants and bars of Gangnam) and i lived in a box for the last 2 years so i will treat myself and live in a slightly bigger box. Another bonus to they place I signed for is it was fully furnished so I have no need to go and buy furniture and then have to get rid of it when i leave. I move in on Saturday after i check out of my hotel and will finally be able to settle in.
I will be uploading more pictures later when I am able to use my computer.


After work all of the teachers went out for one of my coworkers birthday. We had a nice Korean BBQ dinner then went to the bar that the teachers are regulars at. When leaving i tried to catch a cab which there is no shortage of since the subways close early here. Oh how i miss NYC 24 hr transit system. Well I need to start learning more Korean (and also try to not have a white face). The taxi drivers usually arent fond of anyone who cant speak Korean and by looking at me they sure know that I probably do not. After a couple failed attempts to get a taxi back to my hotel i started to walk home (it wasnt too far) but while walking under the underpass to cross the street I saw the subway was still open but it was being guarded. I asked if I could still take the subway and after telling him where I was headed he let me pass. I think I caught the last rain of the night...